Reg’s Wine Blog – post # 25, July 28, 2016 – Are you good enough to taste my wine?

Well the title says it all. This post may sound like it comes from a wine snob, and maybe it does. The point is, fine wine has a tendency to turn otherwise normal people into wine snobs.

At a recent barbeque dinner I found myself in conversation with a family member who had recently purchased a decent older bottle of wine from a reliable source and was now tormenting himself as to who he would invite to share it with him. In fact he was lamenting that having recently broken up with his girlfriend that she was now off the short list of candidates. He was asking me how to deal with the difficult task of appraising who might have sufficient knowledge and appreciation of wine to enjoy the opportunity and be worthy of an invitation.

Well naturally, my first inclination was to think of myself, but I did not need to because he suggested that I was the only suitable candidate he could think of, which saved me the embarrassment of volunteering myself. I graciously accepted and am pleased to have made the list. Just because I am on the list does not however get me a seat at the table. So this got me thinking and I immediately smiled and said that this would make a good topic for my wine blog.

When you look around at your family and circle of close friends trying to decide which ones like and appreciate fine wine you usually end up putting everyone into one of three categories, those who like and appreciate, those who have no clue and don’t care, and those who are in between. And let’s not forget the problem with couples when only one of the two is worthy of your wine. The social ramifications of inviting only the true wine connaisseurs are complicated and usually fatal to you the host, guaranteed to insult somebody.

Imagine if you will the following scenario. You have one 26 ounce bottle of premium red wine to enjoy. It is special, say a 1989 Chateau Leoville Las Cases, it could be opened fairly soon as it is fully developed and at its peak. You have paid several hundred dollars, so you actually thought of drinking the whole bottle yourself. You are not married and have recently broken up with your girlfriend, otherwise you would have had no choice but to split the wine over a romantic dinner with your companion, even if she may not have had as good a nose for wine as you do.

So now your mind wanders through your contact list, “who do I know who likes wine and would appreciate sharing this bottle with me”. Well let’s see, there’s Harry, but Harry never does anything without his wife Jenny, and Jenny has no clue about wine and never shuts up. So Harry is off the list. I could invite Paul, but he drinks like a fish and too fast, meaning either we will finish the bottle much too fast (I will have to drink my wine just as fast to keep up with him and make sure that I get half the bottle), or Paul will get three quarters of my fine bottle. And Paul will just be moving into first gear and will want us to get into at least two more bottles of lower quality wine, no doubt from my cellar, and not do justice to this fine bottle. So Paul is off the list. Sarah likes wine, but her spouse Tom does not, and I cannot invite just Sarah, even though I would like to now that I’m a free agent again. Nope, Sarah is off the list too.

And so on and on it goes. Family is even worse because you cannot invite just one sibling if you have three, you must invite them all or risk insulting the ones left out. You want to pick and choose who is worthy of inviting, but social etiquette says you may not do so without bearing the consequences, and those negatives will outweigh all the good in that special bottle. So what do you do?

Here are some options to consider:

  • Consider drinking the whole bottle yourself. If anyone corners you in future asking what happened to that expensive bottle, you can make up some feeble story like “I noticed the cork was drying out and there was some seepage from the bottle, causing me to think the wine was no longer good, so I tested it myself, and much to my surprise it was excellent, but of course it needed to be drunk right away”.
  • Plan an event around your bottle with three other friends who appreciate wine. Each attendee must bring a wine of similar cost and quality so this becomes a mini tasting. You will have four good wines with people who appreciate it and who have their own high quality wine at the table. Everyone gets a 6.5 ounce glass of wine from each of four wines. There will also be lots of chatter after the event, and this may even blossom into becoming an annual or semi-annual event to be repeated with other good wines.
  • You can throw caution to the wind, damn the torpedoes, and invite whoever you want regardless of consequences or who gets insulted. This works only for special people, those social misfits and miscreants who just don’t care who thinks what. Yes there actually are some of those special types out there, so don’t be shy about it, come out of that closet and proclaim your obnoxious self.
  • Be bold and generous, even if that is completely out of character for you, and pull out the bottle for your next special family celebration. Here you must have nerves of steel and pay no attention to the cheap seat comments from those in attendance who would rather be drinking a beer, or who immediately switch from your fine wine to wine from a box.

Above all else, do not brow beat yourself into a state of neutrality where you think yourself into such a dilemma that you decide to do nothing. Wine is made to be consumed, and the cost of the wine should not be any deterrent from doing so. When you have an expensive bottle to work with you should put more care and planning into the event (plan for success), but you should still hold the event.

Now let’s look into the 1989 Chateau Leoville Las Cases a little more closely for my barbeque friend last weekend. A quick check online reveals that the wine is worth about $300 CDN, rated an average 92 points by 6 critics, peak drinking from 2003 – 2018.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 25.1

Recent tasting notes describe a wine rich in tobacco, truffles, spice, red and black fruit, cassis, and very full bodied. A noted taster in 2014 declared that the wine should continue to drink well for another 10 – 20 years. Mouth filling and well balanced, ending on spicy, blackberry and black cherry notes, with a hint of chocolate. Even though 1989 is regarded as an overall very fruity year in Bordeaux, Leoville Las Cases can be a very tough wine until it opens up, so the wine should probably be decanted for one to two hours before tasting.

So this wine can be consumed now, in 2 years, 10 years, or even later. Needless to say, my friend’s options are open. So he has lots of time to find himself a new girlfriend, reconcile with his old girlfriend, save it to celebrate his Dad’s 70th birthday a few years from now, or bring it on over to my place for immediate gratification. When you compare the various options he has available to him, I am not holding my breath waiting for him to show up at my door.

But that’s just the way it goes when you have an expensive bottle of wine, everybody is your friend, wanting to get to know you (and your wine) better. Don’t be surprised if your wine gets invited out more often than you do.

Ah the choices we have and the decisions we must make!

Cheers,

Reg.

 

Reg’s Wine Blog – post # 24, July 22, 2016 – Microvin Inc. takes wine making kits to a whole new level.

One of the biggest challenges facing any serious wine lover is how to find good reliable wine for every day drinking purposes that will not break the bank. While it is great talking and reading about wine tastings and special occasion wines, what will you be drinking with your Saturday night steak, or your mid-week pasta? If you are like everyone else, you probably have 3 or 4 of your favorite types of “drinkers” on hand in the wine fridge or cellar, and this post is all about finding those “drinkers”, the endless quest to find a good wine that is inexpensive and ready to drink now. With 4 adult kids, family dinners at my place often include 10 adults, so good luck getting by with less than 3 or 4 bottles of wine at one of those dinners, and you don’t want to be spending over $100.00 on wine every time you have the family over for dinner.

Over the years I have bought and tried many cheap table wines that were mostly not that interesting. You want something reasonably good, not something that is raw, overly acidic, too young, with a variety of unpleasant odours and tastes that turns everyone away from the wine and has everyone saying “no thanks, I’ll just have a Perrier”. I also dabbled with making my own wine, from wine kits, trying to convince myself that these wines were okay, and constantly trying to figure out what I had done wrong in the production process. I would buy the juice concentrate in a large bucket, add water and produce about 32 bottles in a 5 gallon carboy over a 4-6 week period. I was not terribly impressed with my skills as the finished product tasted watery, too loose and unstructured. I was also unsure if it was my shortcomings or the juice concentrate itself. Aging did improve the wine marginally, but this certainly was not a good long term solution. However, the price at $5.00 per bottle was attractive, so it motivated me to keep searching for that elusive “home brew” solution to provide me with acceptable “drinkers”.

About 2 years ago I found Microvin Inc. when my kids bought me a wine kit for a Father’s Day present.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-1

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-2

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-3

Microvin is basically selling wine kits for home brewing but they also offer, for a fee, to allow you the use of their facilities to make the wine. What I liked immediately about the Microvin product was the option to have the ”home brew” part of the process done on their premises, therefore making use of their staff, facilities and equipment. This was a great improvement because I knew right away this would remove the “Reg” factor as the weak link in the finished product. The end result was a much better wine, our first wine was an Italian Pinot Grigio which was quite pleasant, but not yet up to the standard that I wanted for an everyday drinker. So I experimented further with more expensive kits, blends, longer production cycles (6 week products verses 4 week products), etc. Still I thought the wines were good, just not something to get overly excited about, but what more can you expect from a $5.00 bottle of wine.

Then one day about 8 months ago it happened, when ordering my next batch of Cabernet Sauvignon I was asked if I wanted to add in a Merlot “kicker”. What was that I wondered, and I was told the shop could add Merlot juice to create a blend that would end up being about 7% merlot, for an extra $10.00. Knowing that many great Bordeaux wines are a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a dash of Merlot or Cabernet Franc, I jumped on this as fast as I could. The result was fabulous, that Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend was miles above the straight Cabernet Sauvignon. There was more pepper and spice in the aroma as well as on the palate. There was also more fruit, a smoother aftertaste and an overall much improved tasting experience. I was so impressed I have reordered the same product and blend several times since then. I have found my Holy Grail, that elusive ultimate cheap “drinker” at about $5.00 per bottle.

I recently interviewed Pascal Drapeau, the owner of Microvin Inc. to learn more from him about his passion for wine and what sets Microvin Inc. head and shoulders above the competition for home brew wine kits. Here is some of what I learned from that interview:

Pascal’s father started the business in 1978, Pascal joined the business in 1989. Microvin Inc. is currently located in the Pointe Claire Shopping Center in Pointe Claire Quebec (a suburb of Montreal). They have about 2,500 active clients. From 1978 to 2002 they just sold you the wine kit and you brought it home to make yourself. In 2002 they began offering on site production as an added service, for a flat fee of $50.00, and their business took off. Today about 90% of sales come from wine kits, 5% from the sale of beer making kits, and 5% from the sale of accessories. 80% of the customers buying wine kits opt to have the kit made on site, only 20% make the wine themselves at home. Customers are buying 80% red wine kits, and only 20% white wine kits.

Pascal has about 4,000 square feet of store space, half of which is dedicated to the onsite production process.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-5

Reg's Wine blog - photo 24-12

 

As you can see in the above photos, from kit on the shelf to carboys in the back all in a one stop shop.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-9

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-6

Pictured above is the primary fermentation room on the top and the bottling stations on the bottom, fully occupied.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-8

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-7

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-11

Above photos of numerous racks of carboys verifies that business is in fact booming!

Pascal has maximum production capacity of about 1,500 five gallon carboys at any given time, and he is currently running at between 75% and 90% capacity depending on the season.

Microvin Inc. is affiliated with the RJS Academy of RJ Spagnols, and to learn more about what they offer you should go to www.rjscraftmwinemaking.com . RJS affiliates number over 120 stores across Canada, and Pascal tells me that his store is the second largest in sales in the country. As an RJS Academy store, he is only allowed to carry RJS product, but that product range is quite extensive, consisting of over 160 different types of wine kits, over 8 different product lines that range from 4 to 8 weeks production cycles.

The home brew craft winemaking business is particularly popular in Canada since most of the wine sales in Canada are controlled through provincial liquor control boards, all of whom apply substantial markups and taxes on wine. This means that the average table wine that you can buy in Europe or the United States for $5.00 – $10.00 is going to cost you $15.00 – $20.00 in Canada. So high provincial tax rates on wine is what drives the growth in the craft winemaking business in Canada. In fact, Pascal confirms that every time a Quebec provincial budget applies a tax increase on wine and spirits, his sales immediately go up. This is pretty good economics if you ask me because we all know taxes always go up, never down.

Within the various product lines themselves, you will find almost all the standard single grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Carmeniere, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache, and Zinfandel in the reds, and Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscat in the whites. They also have a variety of blends resulting in products like an Australian Cabernet Shiraz Merlot or a Chilean Cabernet Malbec Carmeniere. New products are added all the time, and older ones are dropped. They also offer specialty products such as port and icewine. Grapes are sourced and imported in bulk to the RJS production and packaging facility in Toronto, where the grape concentration and packaging takes place, and from there the wine kits are distributed to their store affiliates. Sometimes a product gets dropped because suitable grape supply is no longer available.

When it comes to the onsite winemaking process itself, the first priority ingredient to consider is the water source. At Microvin, Pascal has equipped himself with both his own distilling system that includes ultra violet light exposure (which cost him $25,000 years ago and is now worth considerably more today), plus an reverse osmosis system costing about $5,000.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-4

His water source is better, cleaner, free of contaminants and certainly better than the tap water you may use at home, and probably better than the bottled water you may want to use. Your water source is crucial to the finished product, and I am pleased to report that Pascal probably has the best water of any store in the RJS Academy chain with the equipment he is using.

Additives, and in particular sulphites, are another interesting feature in the home brew process. As everyone knows, sulphites are added to wines primarily to preserve the wine as it ages. In theory the faster you drink your wine the less sulphite needs to be added in the wine making process. The Quebec Liquor Board imports their own low end wine in bulk and they bottle it themselves, in the process they add sulphites normally in the range of 200 – 300 parts per million. Many people are quite sensitive to sulphites and often complain that wines heavy in sulphites give them severe headaches (some get migraine headaches). Microvin typically limits sulphites to 50 parts per million, and for sulphite sensitive people this can be reduced to 25 parts per million. This ranges anywhere from 75% to 90% less sulphites, so for sulphite sensitive people the ability to control the amount of this additive is a huge plus. The only thing you lose with less sulphites in the wine is storage and aging time, so you need to drink your 30 bottle batch within one year, which is good for Pascal’s business. This should also be good for you because this is an everyday type of wine, not a specialty product that you want or need to store for 5-10 years.

And I have saved the best for last, about a year ago Pascal and his team began experimenting with and offering his clients the ability to add customizing features into the wine production process. So for your California Cabernet Sauvignon it is now possible to add a merlot “kicker”, for your Italian Pinot Grigio you can now add a splash of Chardonnay, and so on. You can reduce sulphites. You can also add colour by adding extra berries, or add peppercorns to boost that peppery taste, or more oak to boost the oak and tannin level. Pascal can also easily accommodate further blending by mixing two different kits together to produce a blend of both kits. So instead of just adding the Merlot “kicker” to your California Cabernet Sauvignon, with the resulting 7% – 10% Merlot content, a blend of two kits together (one Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Merlot) would get you a 50/50 blend.

So far as we know, Pascal and his team are the only ones in the RJS chain in Canada who do any customization, and when you taste the difference these customized products make you will never be satisfied with just a regular wine kit again. Not only will his team manage and supervise the production process for you, but they will advise you what you can and cannot do in the way of customization because they have already done the experimentation for you. Their customized features, using their production facilities, benefitting from their experience, and having them manage the process for you are all huge benefits to you and go a long way towards ensuring you will have a very positive wine making experience.

And in the finished product, I found that the straight forward Cabernet Sauvignon was okay, but dry, tart, short on the palate, not special in any way, acceptable but not really enjoyable (which I would rate 6 on 10). That same Cabernet Sauvignon kit with a Merlot “kicker” was now more aromatic on the nose, full and vibrant in fruit on the palate, richer with a more satin feel on the tongue, smooth, fruity, and robust (which I would rate 8.5 on 10). Wow, what a great improvement, and a product I am very satisfied with as an everyday drinker. The price is also hard to beat, coming in at about $5.00 per bottle.

So in summary, for your everyday wine consumption consider craft wine making. Find a shop that offers the wine making service on site (most RJS Academy stores do offer this service), be careful to verify the water source they use, and verify what experience (if any) they have with customized blending and additives. Unless you are at Microvin your craft wine making shop will probably not have any experience with customized features, so you should tell them to contact Pascal for more information. Pascal and Microvin would appear to be leading the industry, and the results speak for themselves. Once you have checked out your local craft wine making shop, if all looks good, go for it and try it out, you may be pleasantly surprised.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 24-13

If you are fortunate enough to live in the greater Montreal area, you should check out Microvin. You can reach Pascal and his team at 514-695-4467, by email at microvin@videotron.ca , their website address is www.microvin.com and they are located at 245-0 St. John’s Blvd. Pointe Claire, Quebec in the Pointe Claire Shopping Plaza. Tell them Reg sent you!

Good hunting,

Reg.

Reg’s Wine Blog – post # 23, more on the Bordeaux 2015 vintage as the top estates announce release prices.

Last week most of the remaining top estates announced release prices for their 2015 wines. The trend continues with huge increases ranging from 40% to 70%, not a happy trend for the consumer and wine collector. Liv-ex released an extensive blog post Monday June 27th (which you can read in detail using the following link: http://www.blog.liv-ex.com/category/releases/bordeaux-2015-en-primeur?mc_cid=66d7916d9a&mc_eid=d9373685f8 ). In their post you can read how Chateau Lafite Rothschild has released their 2015 vintage at a 50% increase, Chateau Ausone at a 63.3% increase, and Chateau Cheval Blanc at a 53% increase.

Ironically in the case of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, both the 2014 and 2015 vintage have been rated at 95 points by The Wine Advocate’s Neal Martin, and the 2014 vintage (which will not hit retail shelves for another full year) will be about 25% cheaper than the 2015 vintage when it hits the store shelves two years from now. So high price increases for the 2015 vintage are creating some interesting opportunities for buyers if you look at older vintages such as 2012, 2013, and 2014. Watch out for the 2013 vintage, there are some poor wines in that vintage, but 2012 and 2014 in particular will have some much better bargains.

This same Liv-ex blog also relates how a poll they conducted of their top 440 wine merchant members (some of the largest wine merchants in the world) showed that 98.4% of those merchants underestimated how much the 2015 vintage prices would be increased. The group collectively anticipated increases from growers of roughly 18%, and what we got were increases averaging 46% higher, which is more than double what the trade had expected. Are growers getting greedy? Maybe. Is demand from China and other developing countries putting upward pressure on prices? Maybe. Are speculators who want to grab up all the top rated wines to flip back into the market for a quick buck, taking advantage of high scores from wine critics? Probably.

Human nature being what it is, growers will charge what the market will bear, arguing that weather, economic cycles, and other factors all conspire against them and can create very difficult and widely fluctuating costs and revenues, ergo the need to make as much money as they can when times are ripe (no pun intended).

Liv-ex also released another blog post on Bordeaux 2015 release prices on June 16th with more sticker shock (which you can read through the following link: http://www.blog.liv-ex.com/category/releases/bordeaux-2015-en-primeur/page/2?mc_cid=30dad2140a&mc_eid=d9373685f8 . Here you will note that Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou is up 70%, Chateau Mouton Rothschild is up 60%, Chateau Haut Brion is up 60%, and Chateau La Mission Haut Brion is up a staggering 107%.

And among all this stunning price activity, Chateau Pontet Canet sold out its first tranche release at 75 euros and announced a second tranche release at 88 euros. Readers of my last blog post # 22 will note that I flagged Chateau Pontet Canet as a great alternative with a great wine score (95) at an attractive price. The price for their 2014 vintage was 66 euros ex-negotiant, and as you can see the first tranche release at 75 euros represented a modest 13.6% increase, and their second tranche release at 88 euros is still only 33% higher than their 2014 price. Relative to what many of the other growers are doing, Chateau Pontet Canet remains my top choice for those looking to buy 2015 Bordeaux futures.

In Canada, this week the LCBO starts selling their 2015 Bordeaux futures offering to the public. Clicking on the link below will take you to their offering:  http://www.vintages.com/futures/bordeaux-futures-2015/2015bordeaux_list.shtml?utm_source=June24&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=Bordeaux2015 .

I have gone through the offering in detail, and here are my thoughts:

  • Among the big names, Chateau Ausone (96) at $1,250 and Chateau Cheval Blanc (98) at $1,200, both from St. Emilion, appear to be overpriced compared to their counterparts elsewhere. Chateau Margaux (99), Chateau Haut Brion (99) and Chateau Mouton Rothschild (98) are all priced at $950, and this will look like a good price in 2018 when these same bottles hit the retail shelves at 30% higher in price. Since these are near perfect wines, they are interesting, and one advantage of buying through the LCBO in Ontario is that they can be bought by the bottle.
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.15
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.16
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.17
  • Chateau Lafite Rothschild (95) at $999 appears to be a lesser quality choice for more money, but then again you are paying for the name. If you prefer a top wine for less money, take a look at Chateau La Mission Haut Brion (98) at $699, rated just as high as Chateau Mouton Rothschild but $256 per bottle cheaper.
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.11

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • In Pauillac, besides the big names, you can find good value with Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Baron (97) at $249, Chateau Pontet-Canet (95) at $185, and Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste (95) at $115.
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-1
  • Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-9
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-2
  • In the Margaux region, take a look at Chateau Rausan-Segla (97) at $139, and in St. Julien I think Chateau Leoville Barton (95) at $129 also looks worthwhile.Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-3
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-4
  • In the Graves region, you should also be looking at Chateau Pape Clement (96) at $139, Domaine de Chevalier (96) at $109, and Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere (95) at $79.
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-5
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-6
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-7
  • In the St. Emilion region I really like Chateau Canon (99) at $175, and also worth noting are Chateau Figeac (98) at $249, and Clos Fourtet (96) at $175.
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-8
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-9
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23-10
  • In Pomerol take a closer look at Chateau Le Gay (95) at $179, Chateau Clinet (96) at $149, and Chateau Clos L’Eglise (95) at $139.
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.12
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.13
  • Reg's Wine Blog - photo 23.14
  • Second wines from the big estates seem to me to be overpriced, with Le Petit Mouton (second wine of Chateau Mouton Rothschild at 92 points) and Pavillon Rouge (second wine of Chateau Margaux at 93 points) both going for $249 per bottle.

So if you shop carefully and quickly, there are some good values to be had. The sale starts Wednesday June 29th, the best deals will be gone within 3 hours, that is why I have highlighted at least a dozen selections above worth considering. My favorites from the above list are Pontet-Canet, Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Malartic-Lagraviere.

So there you have it, the 2015 Bordeaux vintage will be very good, and very expensive when it hits retail shelves in 2018. If you feel you should buy futures to lock in a 30% discount to retail prices, there are some good deals available through the LCBO in Ontario, but you will have to move fast, as in right now.

Good hunting and good luck.

Reg

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 22, Bordeaux Wine Prices and the 2015 vintage – up, up and away!

You may or may not have heard, the 2015 Bordeaux vintage for classified growths is being priced now, and various properties are releasing their opening prices. The good news: a very good year for Bordeaux classified growths if you go by what Neal Martin of Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate has to say. The bad news: wine prices are headed up, in some cases way up.

The Liv-Ex wine blog out of the UK does an excellent job of tracking wine prices, and they also track how responsive wine prices are to wine critic scores, and Robert Parker’s scores in particular. The most recent Liv-Ex blog on opening wine prices ex-negociant can be read by using the following link, http://www.blog.liv-ex.com/category/releases/bordeaux-2015-en-primeur. The dramatic price increases being described are averaging 30% higher, and in some cases (like Chateau Margaux), they are much higher (by 83.6%). Will the 2015 Chateau Margaux be too expensive for most people?

Let’s look at Chateau Margaux for a moment, with an opening price to the trade up a staggering 83.6% from last year. The Chateau is selling to the negociant at 384 euro per bottle, the negociant is applying his 17% markup and selling futures at 4,260 pounds sterling per case of 12. That futures price equates to $6,050.00 US or $7,750.00 CDN per case, but that is not the price you will pay, that is the price that your wine importer will pay, companies like Chateau and Estate Wines in the US or the LCBO or SAQ in Ontario and Quebec. These companies will apply their own markup, and those markups vary widely. Let’s assume you get lucky and the local markup is only 25% on the futures offering, so you will be paying $7,562.50 US or $9,687.50 CDN per case. On a per bottle basis that works out to $630 US or $807 CDN per bottle. Those are for Bordeaux futures, which means pay now and wait 18 months for your wines to be delivered, ouch!

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-2

But there is more, if you choose to wait for the wine to be released on the store shelves before buying, the price you will pay will be higher, usually another 25% higher because the retailer will be paying more to buy the wine than the futures price, and applying his own markup accordingly. That means you can expect to find 2015 Chateau Margaux hitting retail store shelves in September 2018 at about $800 US or over $1,000 CDN. Wow, over $1,000 per bottle for wine that you will have to store no less than 10 years before you dare try to enjoy it. Are you in price shock yet? I know I certainly am.

So how good is the wine? For this price it had better be really good. Neal Martin has recently replaced Robert Parker as The Wine Advocate’s Bordeaux critic, and according to Neal the wine is rated 98-100 points from barrel samples. It is normal for the wine to be initially given a range (in this case from 98-100 points) until the wine itself is bottled a year from now. According to Neal you should “Beg for a bottle and worry about the cost later.” Clearly Neal expects the wine to fly off the order shelves and be impossible to get. It also appears that Chateau Margaux may be the top Bordeaux wine of the vintage. And if all this were not convincing enough, Margaux’s winemaker and head of operations Paul Pontallier passed away on March 27th 2016 at 60 years of age after running Chateau Margaux for 33 years. Paul will be sorely missed and 2015 will therefore be his last vintage as winemaker and head of operations, again adding to the importance and sentimental value of the 2015 Chateau Margaux.

Okay, this wine sounds pretty good, however we now have another problem. The more Neal talks about how good this wine is, the higher the price will go and the more difficult it will become to find any, especially if Chateau Margaux turns out to be the best Bordeaux wine of 2015. Neal will also be tasting and rating this wine again once it is bottled and before it is released on store shelves, so do not be surprised if the retail prices I have mentioned above turn out to be lower than the actual retail prices once the hype has moved into top gear. I would not be surprised to see 2015 Chateau Margaux at $1,000 US and $1,250 CDN on the store shelves just in time for Christmas 2018. Indeed when Neal says “beg for a bottle”, a bottle may be all you can ever hope to get, and it may also be all you can afford.

So have Bordeaux prices gone too high? How high is too high? I remember 30 years ago often being in New York City, Washington, and Buffalo on business and buying the 1982 vintage of Chateau Margaux, Lafite Rothchild, Mouton Rothchild, Latour, Haut Brion and Cheval Blanc at $40 US per bottle. That’s right, $40 US per bottle, and at the time Robert Parker was calling the 1982 vintage “the vintage of the century” and had rated all the top wines at 95 points or more.

Reg's Wine blog photo 22-4

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-5

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-3

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-6

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-8

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-7

If the 2015 Chateau Margaux hits store shelves in the US at $1,000 US per bottle, the price will be 25 times higher than the 1982 vintage was selling for in 1986. That is crazy, and that is also too high for most people.

So is it time to say goodbye to your favorite classified Bordeaux estates? Maybe, and for those devotees reluctant to jump ship, you can resort to buying the Chateau’s second wine. In the case of Chateau Margaux that would be Pavillon Rouge, which is much cheaper, but will still end up hitting the retail shelves in 2018 at a minimum of $200 US or $260 CDN per bottle. That will be a 45% increase (certainly much more reasonable than the 83.6% increase for Chateau Margaux), and the wine itself is rated by Neal at 93 points, certainly a respectable score but not a potential 100 point wine. Still, you get five bottles for the price of one, something worth considering.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-1

In terms of volume of production and therefore availability, there are 200,000 bottles of Pavillon Rouge produced annually (16,667 cases) verses only 150,000 bottles (or 12,500 cases) of Chateau Margaux produced. So you will have an easier time getting Pavillon Rouge with 33% higher production, and less demand because all the action is going to focus on the “grand vin”.

What other options are available for the price conscious consumer without straying too far from Bordeaux classified growths?My first suggestion is to look for a chateau with higher annual production, this generally means staying away from most Pomerols. Look for less than perfection, so avoid 100 Parker point wines, and look for underrated value, such as a 5th growth wine producing at 2nd growth or better quality level. A good example of this is Chateau Pontet-Canet, a 5th growth from Pauillac, with annual production of 240,000 bottles or 20,000 cases.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 22-9

It is also worth keeping an eye on the estate’s 2nd wine, Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet, which also produces 240,000 bottles or 20,000 cases annually.

Reg's Wine blog photo 22-10

Neal Martin rates the 2015 Chateau Pontet-Canet at 94-96 points, pretty high quality, in fact a perfect place to be, any higher a rating would be having a much more pronounced impact on price. The estate also has an excellent quality track record, having delivered 100 point wines in both 2009 and 2010, so they are right now at the top of their game. Initial futures pricing is at 795 pounds sterling per case, which according to my calculations above for Chateau Margaux, would lead to retail prices at about $150 US and $200 CDN per bottle. So for the value oriented consumer, the 2015 Chateau Pontet-Canet is going to hit retail shelves at least 20% cheaper than Pavillon Rouge, and it is higher rated by Neal Martin (94-96 verses 93). In terms of comparison with Chateau Margaux itself, you will be able to buy at least 6 bottles of Chateau Pontet-Canet for the same price as one bottle of Chateau Margaux, at what amounts to a slightly lower score (94-96 verses 98-100).

Are Bordeaux prices out of control? Yes, for now they are, but they operate in cycles and 3 or 4 poor growing years from now prices could be a lot lower again, so don’t despair. There are lots of bargains to be found if you have a mind, and the will, to shop carefully. With lots of second wines available today for most of the major estates, there are many more ways today to find value with classified growth Bordeaux than there were 20 or 30 years ago.

So good hunting,

Reg.

 

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 21, June 7, 2015 – Hugel Gewurztraminer 2013 rated best wine at a recent white wine tasting.

With summertime fast approaching, friends and family decided it would be smart to have a white wine tasting to give everyone some new wine ideas to enjoy in their summer leisure time.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-1

I was asked to put a list of wines together, available locally, priced in the $15.00 to $25.00 range (CDN) for 15 people. I also wanted to cover several different grape types, and yet give our guests good information on different expressions of the same grape from different wine regions. Not an easy task given that you would also be heavily restricted simply by what was available at the local wine shop.

There was no dinner planned with the tasting, but there were plenty of munchies and entrées, some of which were deliberately put together to compliment a specific wine. See below the wines in the order in which they were tasted along with my tasting notes and comments:

  • McWilliam’s Hanwood Riesling – 2014 / $16.10 / product number 10754607 / Australian Riesling / medium fruit, not dry, light, tart and short on the aftertaste, an honest uncomplicated new world Riesling at a reasonable price, liked by most tasters / my rating 7.5 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-3

  • Trimbach Riesling – 2012 / $22.80 / product number 11305547 / dry Alsace Riesling from a highly regarded producer / steely dry and mouth puckering Riesling, a very good example of classic dry Alsatian Riesling from a great year, this wine goes great with most seafood, balanced and pleasant aftertaste / my rating 8 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-5

  • Umberto Cesari Liano Rubicone – 2012 / $23.75 / product number 1161761 / Italian Chardonnay and Sauvignon blend / lovely full glycerine legs down the inside of the glass advertised the rich full bodied nature of the wine, a great mix and balance of the power of the Chardonnay grape with the softer more acidic Sauvignon Blanc, showed good balance, finesse, and elegance, would be delicious with chicken in a mushroom sauce / my rating 8.5 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-4

  • Conundrum California – 2013 / $25.05 / product number 10921073 / California blend of 25% each of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat and Voignier / this wine works very well with each grape contributing to the finished product in a noticeable way, the wine is full fruit and nicely balanced with the Chardonnay delivering the fruit, the Muscat and Voignier delivering the smoke, spice and body, with the Sauvignon Blanc delivering the crispness and acidity needed to balance the fruit, overall a very pleasant blend, perfect for summertime tasting by the lake or pool / my rating 8 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-2

  • Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay Sonoma – 2014 / $20.05 / product number 897215 / medium Chardonnay fruit, refined, no overkill, shows finesse and balance, not a fruit bomb or an over achiever, an established producer making a predictable, agreeable lighter and stylist Chardonnay / my rating 8.25 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-9

  • Coppola Diamond Chardonnay – 2014 / $23.25 / product number 10312382 / great legs indicating high viscosity and glycerine content, good medium Chardonnay nose, not over oaked, a little off balance on the aftertaste, I was expecting more fruit than we got / my rating 8 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-8

  • Pinot Gris Waimea Nelson – 2015 / $19.75 / product number 11662018 / New Zealand Pinot Gris / the wine is very young and only recently bottled and it showed, but there is very good fruit on the palate, good smoky spice flavours, nicely balanced, worked very well with a shrimp cocktail sauce, lots of potential but needs more time in the bottle / my rating 8.5 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-6

  • Bolla Retro Pinot Grigio – 2015 / $16.95 / product number 12494714 / this wine was loose and watery and that cannot be blamed on the very young vintage, we also tasted this in the wrong order as we should have tasted it before the New Zealand Pinot Gris above, there was not much nose, disappointing on the palate and sharp on the aftertaste, my rating 6.5 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-11

  • Preiss-Zimmer Pinot Gris Reserve – 2013 / $23.50 / product number 967414 / Alsace Pinot Gris / this was softer and fruitier than expected, very good smoke and spice on the nose that is lost and not present on the palate as there is too much sweetness on the palate, if this had been vinified a little drier it would have been more of a success, my rating 8 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-12

  • Hugel Gewurztraminer – 2013 / $21.00 / product number 00329235 / great legs in the glass indicating high glycerine content, very pure expressive fruit showing lychees and rose petals on the nose and palate, crisp and lasting aftertaste, by far the most expressive wine of the evening, goes great with any spicy or curry dish / my rating 9 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-10

  • Langlois Vieilles Vignes – 2009 / $27.55 / product number 856674 / Loire Valley Chenin Blanc / a dry chenin blanc, good pure fruit expression, very fragrant nose, thick viscous legs indicating a high glycerine content, beguiling, old vine quality shines through, wished it was sweeter / my rating 8.75 on 10.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-7

As you can see from the list and my notes I wanted to get several different grapes in front of our tasters, so we got Riesling (in 2 wines), Chardonnay (in 2 wines), Pinot Gris or Grigio (in 3 wines), Gewurztraminer (in 1 wine), Chenin Blanc (in 1 wine), and two blends that also gave us exposure to Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, and Viognier. I also wanted to show different styles from different regions, allowing the tasters to compare Australian Riesling with Alsatian Riesling, New Zealand Pinot Gris to Alsace and Italian, etc.

Overall the Hugel Gewurztraminer was the best wine of the evening as everyone agreed, rated 9 on 10, followed by the Langlois Chenin Blanc, rated at 8.75 on 10, then two wines at 8.5 on 10 each, the Umberto Cesari Liano Rubicone and the Pinot Gris Waimea Nelson.

The overall quality of the wines tasted was very good, the blends were great, very pleasant crowd pleasers. Everyone remarked that they enjoyed almost every wine in the lineup. There were some obvious food matches, such as the Gewurztraminer with curry and spicy dishes, or the Pinot Gris Waimea Nelson with shrimps and cocktail sauce. The blends (the Conundrum and the Liano) were also very smooth, well balanced, showing great versatility with several different food types.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-13

A very successful summer tasting of mid priced white wines, capped off by the birthday of one of our tasters, allowing us to throw a chocolate cake into the mix for good measure.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 21-14

Good wine, good friends and family, equals a great time and lots of good memories.

Cheers,

Reg.

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 20, May 31, 2016, Birthyear and Anniversary Wines

One of the main reasons to have a wine collection is to have a bottle of something special to celebrate special occasions, such as wedding anniversaries and birthdays. When I first became interested in collecting fine wine in the early 1980’s the first thing I did was start purchasing 1979 first growth Bordeaux to celebrate our wedding anniversary. Because 1979 was not recognized as a resounding success in Bordeaux, I decided it would make sense to purchase several different wines including Chateau Margaux, Latour, Lafite Rothchild, and Haut Brion. That way, I would have a good variety and could hold onto Latour longer if it showed better aging potential than the others (which indeed turned out to be the case).

 

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-9

 

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-11

 

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-10

 

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-12

 

 

 

The Lafite is rated at 90 points and currently priced at $860, the Latour is rated at 91 points and priced at $560, the Haut Brion is rated at 92 points and priced at $510, and the Margaux is rated at 94 points and priced at $585. I have tasted all four more than once and in my opinion the best wine of the four is the Haut Brion, while the weakest is the Lafite. The last time I tasted the Margaux a couple of years ago I thought it was tiring fast and a mere shadow of what it used to be. The Latour looks to be the longest aging of the bunch (and Latour is noted for this characteristic) and looks capable of surviving nicely for another 10 years. The Lafite, which I described in detail recently in my blog post #18, is also losing steam and fading away, although it is still a very nice wine. Only the Haut Brion appears to be holding onto most of its fruit flavors and aromas while the other three all show signs of decline. It is also interesting to note that the weakest wine of the four (the Lafite) is also currently the most expensive, and by a wide margin. At $860 the Lafite is 55% more expensive than the average price of the other three, no doubt this is the “Chinese effect” in action, which will be the subject of a future Reg’s Wine Blog post.

I was born in 1954 and my wife in 1955. 1954 was a disaster for wine throughout Europe so literally nothing survives today, except for one or two vintage Madeira wines that are rare, expensive, and hard to find. So I am out of luck finding anything from my birth year. 1955 was a much better year, and we still have a couple of bottles left from that year, one Lafite and one Latour.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-8

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-7

Those wines are long since past their prime and may no longer be suitable for opening to celebrate anything. Opening them may be more of a gamble and experiment than anything else. (take note: an old wine to celebrate an event can kill the event if it has turned to vinegar, so be prepared with a backup plan). In any event the wines are both rated 94 points on www.winesearcher.com and valued at roughly $2,000 per bottle, both are still drinkable, but soft and fading, so plan to drink them soon.

We have four children born in the years 1983, 1985, 1987, and 1991. My wife and I decided we would buy a case of fine wine for each child from their birth year and give it to them on their 18th birthday to keep for birthday celebrations as long as the wine would last. Naturally the wine would need to be purchased early (for best prices and availability), cellared for many years, and opened once or twice over its first 20 years of life to ensure it was maturing properly.

1983 was an above average year in Bordeaux, and an excellent year for dessert wines in Alsace and Germany. For my eldest I opted for the 1983 Chateau Margaux, which at the time was rated the top wine of the year in Bordeaux. Chateau Margaux had also undergone a change of ownership in 1976 when it was bought by the Felix Potin company, headed by Greek industrialist Andre Mentzelopoulos, and had been upgraded and improved in quality under this new management to the point that both the 1978 and 1979 vintages of Chateau Margaux were considered a major success and major improvement over a string of bad efforts over the previous 20 years. Today Chateau Margaux remains the best Bordeaux wine of the vintage and a good choice. Rated at 95 points and valued at $780 per bottle CDN the wine displays cocoa, chocolate mint, truffles, cassis, tobacco and cedar on both the nose and the palate, and is easily good for another 10 years.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-2

1985 was considered a very forward, fruity, and somewhat lighter vintage in Bordeaux, and good for Vintage Port. The challenge here was to select a wine that would not lose its fruit in 20 years. After considerable research I opted for the 1985 Chateau Mouton Rothchild, viewed by most of the critics as the top first growth Bordeaux of the vintage. I also picked up a few Vintage Ports as a hedge for the future in case the Bordeaux wine dried out and lost its fruit. So far so good, the fruit remains intact and the wine, like my son, is 31 years of age and aging gracefully. The wine is rated at 93 points and valued at $565 CDN per bottle, and described as fully mature, displaying tobacco, cigar box, cedar, cherry and cassis aromas with a medium body and an elegant classy feel to it, drinking perfectly now and will continue to do so for another 10 years.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-3

1987 was not a good year for wine in Europe. There are some Vintage Ports, which I picked up, but otherwise my search led me to California where 1987 was actually a pretty good vintage. After careful consideration I opted for the 1987 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. The main concern anyone would have is trying to determine if the wine would still be worth cellaring beyond 25 years of age. At the time California reds were known for their “fruit bomb” robust fruit forward flavors, great to drink immediately, but not much experience was in the public domain as to how well they would age. Even the world’s foremost wine critic on California wines, Robert Parker, was not projecting great long lifespans beyond 15-20 years, so selecting a California red at that time was considered risky. But there was not much choice with Europe being a write off. We have kept an eye on this wine over the last 10 years as it is now 29 years of age, and even though the wine is tired and showing its age, it is still in fine shape, a little less fruit today than 10 years ago, but still a classy wine. Rated at 92 points and worth $200 CDN per bottle, the wine displays black cherry fruit, some tar, and is both elegant and balanced, with a slight tannic edge to it that disappears after about 2 hours of decanting. In time the tannins will disappear and this wine should survive another 10 years as well.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-1

1991 was again a poor year in Bordeaux, so once again I found myself opting for a California red, this time opting for the 1991 Dominus. Fortunately, 1991 is also a very good year for Vintage Ports, so I added a few of those as insurance in case the Dominus dried out. The 1991 Dominus is rated at 94 points and worth $420 CDN per bottle, the wine displays lots of fruit and power. Perhaps the best tasting description I have read on line about this wine comes from Natalie Maclean, click on the following link to read her full article from November 26, 2014: www.nataliemaclean.com/blog/dominus-wine-napa-tasting-napanook. Natalie describes the wine as mind blowing, stunning, sensational, with great length, and aromas of leather, mushrooms and spices.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 20-6

The kids all wanted us to continue to store their wine for them, which is fine but it does take up cellar space. Being the custodian of their birthyear wines also brings the responsibility of storing it, checking them periodically to ensure no leakage or seepage, and discouraging them from wanting to sell the wine to pay for a car or a credit card bill. Spouses also have little or no attachment to the sentimental family value the birthyear wine represents, so this is another reason to want to cellar the wine out of sight and out of mind with Mum and Dad.

I have often wondered if I were doing this all over again today what would I do differently in terms of selection strategy. First of all, price for first growth Bordeaux is now a major problem, putting that option out of reach for most young families. I still maintain that early purchase of the wines is better than later when prices have already started to climb. But buying a case of 2015 Chateau Margaux or Chateau Mouton Rothchild will not come cheaply, certainly not less than about $700 per bottle or $8,400 CDN per case. If the critics rate the wine highly in a good year, that price could be 30-40% higher. So my best recommendation would be to gravitate to a Vintage Port or Madeira where the price range is going to be much less, in the $150 per bottle range.  An added advantage is that the Vintage Port should probably outlive the first growth Bordeaux in most cases. In our case, good Vintage Port was made in all four years, 1983, 1985, 1987, and 1991.

Another point to bear in mind besides purchase price is price appreciation. If you buy a wine at $100 per bottle for long term storage and 30 years later it is worth $400, you and your family are more likely to open and drink a bottle than if that same wine has appreciated to $1,500. At $1,500 you have a tendency to want to save it, or sell it, but not drink it. It becomes too tempting to your young son of 30 years of age to want to sell his $18,000 worth of wine to buy that new car, or put a down payment on his first house purchase.

So if you are ever in the market to purchase special occasion wines for birthyears or anniversaries, think carefully about your objectives and consider the following questions:

  • How long do I intend to store this wine. The longer you intend to keep the wine the more you should gravitate to fortified wines like Vintage Port.
  • Do I have adequate reliable long term cellar capability. If you expect to be downsizing and selling the family home then storage that is not a problem today may become a problem in future. 30 year old wine that is starting to dry out and lose its fruit needs to be stored under the best of cellar conditions to maximize the years of life it has left.
  • Be prepared to try the wine, certainly from age 20 onwards. There is nothing wrong with your son or daughter having only 9 or 10 bottles of their birthyear wine left by the time they reach 30, as long as those first 2 or 3 bottles have been consumed at birthday celebrations. If your child waits until 40 years of age to try the wine and it turns out to be disappointing, then all the good intentions and careful cellaring will have been for nothing.

Once again, as I have said before, special occasion wines are meant to be consumed, so make a point of planning a suitable event where you and those special people in your life can all enjoy the wine and the cherished company of loved ones. Good wine plus good company equals good memories, and those cannot be taken away from you, those memories will stay with you always, wherever you may be.

Cheers,

Reg.

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 19, May 24, 2016 – The “Parker Effect”, great for speculators, not so good for consumers!

I read an article recently from Liv-Ex, a UK publication that tracks fine wine prices, the article really left me feeling quite frustrated. The article was all about how Robert Parker’s wine scores move market prices. For those of you not familiar with Robert Parker, he is probably the most influential wine critic in the world, an American whose opinion and wine score is revered by consumers and winemakers alike.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-8

The article, published in a Liv-Ex blog dated April 19, 2016 and titled “Five times that Robert Parker moved the Bordeaux market”, cited five recent examples of how wine prices bolted upwards immediately upon receiving an upgraded rating by Robert Parker. You can read the full article through the following link: http://www.blog.liv-ex.com/2016/04/five-times-robert-parker-moved-bordeaux-market.html

When I first started collecting fine wine in the early 1980’s one of the first things I did was subscribe to Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate magazine. That was 35 years ago and I subscribed to the magazine for about 15 years. In those early years Robert Parker’s opinion was already sought after, but it influenced mainly consumer buying behavior, not so much wine prices. Parker’s wine reviews and scores were great (and still are) for “discovering” new gems, first rate wines at bargain prices that would rival the big names in quality. His reviews were also essential reading to understand which wineries were the “up and coming” superstars of tomorrow, and which wineries were overrated and in decline or making only mediocre wines.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-9

In addition, Parker fancied himself a bit of a crusader and consumer advocate by encouraging (through his articles and reviews) local winemakers to upgrade their facilities and wine making practices. By tasting blind and giving honest opinions Parker was able to flag and label poor product, particularly if it was overpriced compared to its peers. Conversely he was also able to draw attention to those wineries and producers making superior wines at bargain prices. So the hunt was on, as so many wine collectors would be guided by his advice in seeking out those unknown and rare gems. But in those early days the emphasis was not on wine scores, if Parker gave the wine a rating of 90 points or more it was considered great, and worth seeking out and buying if reasonably priced. Also, in those early days Parker did not hand out 99 and 100 points with the frequency that he does today. The best argument that Parker has today for the multitude of wines scoring those points is the fact that so many winemakers have taken his advice and upgraded facilities and wine making practices, improved vineyard pruning practices, etc.

A lot has changed since those early days in the mid 1980’s, today the market drools over each and every Parker comment and hint of an upgraded score. When I read the Liv-Ex article above, I was astonished to see that the market today reacts instantaneously to Parker’s comments.

In the case of Chateau Haut Bailly 2009, Parker initially scored the wine at 96-98+ in November 2011 prior to first release with the wine trading at roughly $110 US (or $147 CDN) per bottle. In November 2014, some 3 years later, Parker revised his rating upwards to 100 points, and the wine price shot up 45% in 3 days from $94 US ($126 CDN) to $137 US ($184 CDN). Today some 18 months later that wine is now $192 US ($253 CDN) per bottle. It is also important to note that these international auction prices do not include import duties, transport, or government taxes. It seems like Parker points are worth 20-25% per point at the upper end of the scale. Ouch!

Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-7

The Liv-Ex article also cites as examples how the Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 2005 increased in value by 48% over the 6 months prior to its Parker upgrade from 98+ points to 100, and the Chateau Montrose 2010 that increased in price by 50% in one day when Parker raised his point score of that wine to 100 points. Yikes, watch out, this guy really does move markets and influence wine prices.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-6

Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-5

 

The most astonishing example of all has to be the Chateau Haut Brion 1989 which Parker has evaluated at 100 points on no less than 6 separate reviews. The price of this wine is currently about $1,642 US ($2,205 CDN) per bottle, and Parker has described the wine as “one of the immortal wines and one of the greatest young Bordeaux wines of the last half-century”. Parker has also commented that “life is too short not to drink this wine as many times as possible”. Strong praise indeed from the wine guru himself.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-1

But the truly amazing point to all this lies in the fact that Parker himself has also rated several other recent vintages of Chateau Haut Brion at 100 points: the 2010, the 2009, and the 2005. Those vintages, which all carry the same 100 point Parker rating, sell at $670 US ($900 CDN), $632 US ($850 CDN), and $670 US ($900 CDN) per bottle respectively. So those perfect vintages from the same Chateau sell no less than $972 US per bottle less than the 1989. That is one huge price difference between the 1989 and the others, all bearing perfect 100 point ratings. Why you might ask? Maybe they have yet to get 6 separate reviews from Parker, maybe he just does not shower them with as much praise, maybe they are just younger. Whatever the reason, this is proof positive that both Parker points and Parker praise moves wine prices, and very significantly at that.
Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-2Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-3Reg's Wine Blog photo 19-4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So is this a good thing or a bad thing? Well if you are a wine speculator, someone who buys and sells wine futures, or a regular trader at wine auctions, you must welcome Parker’s input as the largest single factor in boosting your profits. Parker is more influential on wine prices than Warren Buffet is on financial markets, and that is a pretty scary thought. On the other hand if you are a wine consumer then the “Parker effect” can be very depressing as you watch wine prices soar through the roof for your favorite wines. When you see your favorite low cost 5th growth Bordeaux that you used to buy at $25 per bottle soar to $150 per bottle you quickly realize that this wine is no longer affordable. If you are lucky enough to have bought some of that wine before the “Parker effect” took hold, then your wine has appreciated nicely in value, but forget about buying any more of it now, it is too late and too expensive.

As I said above, in the early years the “Parker effect” was all good because the impact on price was much less pronounced. I’m sure Robert Parker himself is often distressed to see that his positive opinion and ratings of wines is rendering them unaffordable for the average wine consumer. Keep in mind it is not the great guru himself, Robert Parker, to blame for the “Parker effect”, but rather the herd mentality of consumers combined with the speculators taking maximum advantage of every positive word that Parker and his team voice. Maybe lower ratings (ie: not so many 100 point perfect scores handed out) might be a good thing! I wonder if the maximum score Parker’s team were to hand out for a wine were limited to 97 points, would wine prices for those top Bordeaux chateaux reduce by 50%? That would be nice, but don’t hold your breath waiting for that to happen.

The moral to this story is simply this: wine is a beverage, meant to be consumed and enjoyed in a social setting. There is so much selection in wine that there will always be something new to try, some new discovery to call your own new personal favorite. You do not need to follow the herd, or feed the speculators. If your favorite wine becomes the latest target of ridiculous price increases, then it is time to move on, go find something else. You may just find that avoiding Parker’s favorite wines will be easier on your wallet, and keep you trying new wines and searching for those next hidden gems and stars of the future.

Good hunting!

Reg.

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 18 – May 17, 2016, Happy Anniversary with 1979 Chateau Lafite Rothchild

As a wine collector there are certain special events in your life worth celebrating, mostly birthdays and wedding anniversaries. My wife and I married in 1979 so I took it upon myself to pick up a healthy supply of 1979 first growth Bordeaux reds in the early 1980’s. Over the years we have celebrated many anniversaries with a nice dinner and some fine wine. This year was no exception.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Chateau-Lafite-Rothschild post 18

1979 was not a great year for Bordeaux first growth reds, certainly not as good as 1978 or 1982, but all considered the year was slightly above average. When I first decided to purchase the best 1979 Bordeaux reds I could for long term storage, I opted to purchase Chateau Lafite (rated 90 points), Chateau Latour (rated 91 points), Chateau Haut Brion (rated 92 points), and Chateau Margaux (rated 94 points). Last year we tried the 1979 Latour which was marvellous, this year I decided it was time to try the 1979 Lafite again as my last notes from 3 years ago indicated I needed to keep a close watch on how much longer this wine will last.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Chateau-Lafite-Rothschild-1979

So I planned out dinner for two, first course consisting of a shrimp appetizer in a garlic butter sauce with a smoked gouda cheese and crackers, paired with the 2010 Chateau de Haute- Serre (which I have previously reviewed under blog post # 12 on April 5th). For the main course with the 1979 Chateau Lafite I had steamed lobster in a butter sauce with vegetables, and for dessert I served a strawberry/chocolate mousse cake in the shape of a heart with a 500 ml bottle of 1989 Tokay Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles by J.B. Adam from Alsace.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-1

I knew from previous experience that the 1979 Lafite could be sliding downhill, so in anticipation of a weak showing by the Lafite, I went with the 2010 Chateau de Haute-Serre to start. I knew this wine would be in great shape, having just tasted the wine a month earlier and rated it at 92 points just as the Wine Spectator magazine had done.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-7

I also wanted a dessert wine to go with the rather rich strawberry/chocolate mousse cake, and the 1989 J.B. Adam Tokay Pinot Gris SGN seemed perfect, it also happened to be the right size at 500 ml, larger than a half bottle but smaller than a full bottle.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-8

The appetizer was perfectly matched with the wine, the smoked gouda cheese was very nicely accentuated by the hickory wood smoke taste in the Chateau de Haute-Serre. The wine, as per my previous blog notes, performed just as well as it had last month, showing consistency. It also paired very well with the food, showing enough body and flavour without overpowering either the shrimps or the cheese.

The 1979 Lafite turned out to be a pleasant surprise, it was not weak at all, it was delicate and tender, but by no means weak. And the Lafite therefore paired very nicely with the lobster, neither one out of synch with the other, both rather light and delicate in style.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-6

I did not decant the Lafite for longer than about 15 minutes before serving because I did not want it falling apart before we were ready to try it. There was not much sediment in the bottle, and in the decanter the wine did not show much age, the colour of the wine around the rim of the decanter was only slightly browned, again in good shape with no signs of any orange rim. There were no glycerin tears or legs down the sides of the decanter, indicating the wine was more astringent and not rich in fruit.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-9

Once in the glass, our wine was subdued on the nose, not giving much away, in fact the nose did improve after another 20 minutes in the decanter and with some swirling in the glass. To me this means that the wine once again is not weak, just reserved and delicate. In future I would decant this wine at least 45 minutes before serving to catch it at its peak. On the nose we had that traditional cedar pencil aroma, leather, cigar smoke, and light fruit delicately balanced. On the palate more of the same, medium body, very soft fruit with gentle balance, reserved but not backward or out of tune in any way. For the year 1979, this wine has held together quite well. The aftertaste was again light, delicate and maybe a little thin, but nicely balanced.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-10

I have one bottle of 1979 Lafite remaining in my cellar, I may not drink that last bottle next May on our next anniversary, but I certainly would not advise waiting longer that 2 years from now to drink up. There is no doubt that the Lafite is not as strong as Latour, Haut Brion and Margaux in the 1979 vintage, so drink up any remaining Lafite first.

For dessert the 1989 J.B. Adam Tokay Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles was also quite pleasant, not great but certainly pretty good. The fruit in this wine was huge, on its own this wine could actually be quite overpowering. Thick glycerin tears rolled down the glass, the wine colour a dark yellow to orange. The wine texture was fat and chewy, in fact the lighter apricot and pineapple fruit was almost out of place with the thick cloying mouth feel you tasted on the palate. The wine was very good, in fact it was perfect for our dessert, and was richer than the dessert itself. In many ways this wine resembled and reminded me of a rich Sauterne and not an Alsace SGN. To me the missing component was not enough acidity in the wine to balance the sugar and fruit. However it is worth noting that this wine is already 27 years old and still showing very well.

Jean Baptiste Adam is the 14th generation winemaker in his family, who have been making wine in the Alsace village of Ammerschwihr for over 400 years, since 1614. Every winemaker with that type of experience and history has evolved his own style of wine, and the Adam late harvest dessert wines are clearly made in a Sauterne type style. Again, this wine paired perfectly with our rich chocolate mousse dessert.

One of the most enjoyable and rewarding parts of planning and hosting a special occasion dinner with the one you love is getting the right wines paired with the right foods. So much can go wrong, and sometimes it does. The wines might be too old, a little too dry (or fruity) for your food selection, maybe not decanted long enough, maybe too long. The pairing with food might not work because of a wrong sauce selection, an off flavoured herb or spice that clashes with the wine. When it all works together the sum total is another memorable shared experience for the happy couple. This was one such evening for the two of us. Every component came together as it should. To me this is what collecting fine wine is all about, planning and sharing a fine dining and tasting experience with friends or family.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-12

The 2010 Chateau de Haute-Serre retails for $25.95 in Quebec, and is rated by both Reg and the Wine Spectator at 92 points, the 1979 Lafite is rated 90 points by Wine-Searcher.com and sells for an average price of approx. $850.00 CDN, and I would give it only an 89 rating, I think the days of being rated 90 points are starting to fade. Obviously you do not want to be buying this wine any longer, it just does not have much time left on it, and buying such a delicate wine it may already be gone. I cannot find tasting notes or a rating for the 1989 J.B. Adam Tokay Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles anywhere online, but I would rate the wine at 90 points and it is probably good for another 5-10 years before that massive fruit bomb starts to dry out. The 1989 vintage is no longer available for purchase anywhere, the oldest vintage available for purchase appears to be the 2005, which retails at approx. $50.00 US or $65.00 CDN. If you could find the 1989 vintage anywhere it would cost no less than $100.00.

So all together, we celebrated in style, consuming about $975.00 worth of wine (please don’t think I paid anywhere near that amount, when I bought the Lafite in 1984 I paid about $30.00). Is my dear wife worth it? You bet she is, one look at her smile tells me she is worth every penny and then some.

Reg's Wine Blog photo 17-4

Cheers,

Reg.

Reg's Wine Blog photo wedding anniv 2

 

 

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 17, May 10, 2016 A tribute to Etienne and Jean Hugel, gone but not forgotten

When I wrote and published my blog post # 6 on February 19, 2016 I indicated in that post, which was a review of the New Years tasting we did of Hugel’s 1976 Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive SGN, that I would write an upcoming future post about our 1986 visit with Jean Hugel as it would tell a wonderful personal story about Jean Hugel, who passed away in June 2009. Little did I know at the time that this post would also be a tribute to his nephew Etienne, who passed away suddenly at age 57 just 4 weeks ago on April 9th, 2016.

Reg's Wine Blog photo hugel 5

Jean Hugel lived a life full of passion for his wine. He was both an ambassador for Alsace wines around the globe, and a tireless promoter of his beloved Hugel wines. Under Jean’s capable management Hugel wines grew to become internationally known and acclaimed. When our family visited Hugel’s winery in September 1986, it was harvest time and predictably the busiest time of the year for every winemaker.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Hugel 2

We were a family of seven, and we had booked an appointment to meet with Jean at the winery weeks in advance. My Dad was an executive of Hilton Canada, so being in the hospitality trade, and the food and beverage industry, it certainly helped getting those hard to book appointments with Hugel and others at their busiest time of year.

SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA

On the day of our visit, Jean greeted us with open arms, much as he would greet long time friends. He personally toured us through the winery itself, telling stories all the while. He was a walking history book about all matters Hugel. His detailed description of his beloved Fut 27, the 8,800 liter cask pictured in the photos below, explained in great detail the 350 history of both the cask and the winery.

Reg's Wine Blog photo hugel 7

You can see both his passion and devotion for all things Hugel captured in these photos as he captivates us with his stories and his passion. Even those of us among our family group who were not as passionate about wine as I was, were enthralled by his personality and charisma. He was a “tour de force” and someone you could not help but admire.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Hugel's Fut 28 Jean makes a point Sept 1986

Reg's Wine Blog photo Hugel's Fut 28 Jean gives a tour Sept 1986

As we went to the tasting room, Jean opened up bottle after bottle to sample, starting with the simplest wines and building to his late harvest Vendange Tardive wines, and his specialty dessert wines, the Selection de Grains Nobles. When we tasted his SGN wines at the end, I told Jean these were what I had come to taste more than anything else. I already owned a couple of bottles of the 1976 Gewurztraminer SGN but had never tasted the wine.

Jean not only served us the 1976 Gewurztraminer SGN, but also the Riesling and the Pinot Gris, both of which I did not know even existed. These wines were absolutely stunning, and by Jean’s own words the 1976 vintage of all three varieties were the best SGN wines of the century at that point, and would all last another 50 years in the bottle. That means according to Jean Hugel those wines should still be good in the year 2036. On January 1, 2016 when last tasted, I rated the 1976 Gewurztraminer SGN at 94 points and forecast that the wine should still be good in 2030. So Jean was right, probably the wines of the century for Hugel.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Hugel 11

As our tasting at Hugel’s drew to a close I asked Jean if I could buy a couple of each of the three 1976 SGN wines from him to take home with us. Much to my surprise and dismay, Jean said no he could not sell me the wines. I was very surprised, but being very passionate about collecting those wines, I got into a prolonged discussion with him about why he could not sell me the wines.

Jean could tell by my enthusiasm and persistence that I was just as passionate about owning those wines as he was about making them and selling them. Jean told me his wine sales direct from the winery were strictly regulated and audited, and restricted to only promotional samples to wine wholesalers (negotiants) or others directly in the trade. After much question and answer, sparring back and forth, that must have gone on for 10 minutes or longer, it became obvious to me that the answer was a firm “no”, and that I was not going to be allowed to buy these magnificent wines. By now 5 of our 7 family members had left the room, not wanting to watch this debate drag out any longer. My expression changed to disappointment as I reluctantly accepted the fact that I was not going to be able to buy these wines. There was nothing more to do at this point but to thank Jean for his hospitality and the chance to taste such wonderful wines. In the presence of my Dad, we shook hands and I thanked Jean, but my disappointment still showed.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Hugel 12

As he was shaking my hand, Jean said to me “I am not allowed to sell you these wines, but nothing prevents me from giving them to you. So I am pleased to give you two bottles each of the three 1976 SGN wines (Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris) as my gift to you.”  I was shocked at first, and after a couple of awkward moments trying to process what had just happened, the smile of pure joy that came across my face must have said it all, and given Jean a strong sense of satisfaction. Jean also gave my Dad a couple of bottles of the Riesling Vendange Tardive wine that he particularly liked. After another 10 minutes of conversation and expressions of profound thanks and appreciation, we left. To this day I have never forgotten that event. Jean did not have to gift anything to us, but he did, and as far as I could tell he did so because he was passionate about his wine, and because he could see that I too was passionate about his wine.

Reg's Wine Blog photo hugel 8

Jean was right again of course, I will never forget that gesture of generosity on his part. I never would have guessed at the time in 1986 that 30 years later I would start a wine blog to write about my favourite hobby, so it gives me great pleasure to be able to devote a blog post to Jean and the entire Hugel family. In some small way to be able to give back or recognize their passion and devotion to the wine industry is the least I can do.

For those of you who do not know, Jean Hugel was responsible for the introduction of INAO regulations governing Vendange Tardives and Selection de Grains Nobles Alsacian wines. The law was drafted and proposed in 1977, and finally passed into law in 1984. This law, aimed at maintaining quality standards for these late harvest wines, requires a blind tasting test be passed before any such wine can legally be sold.

Reg's Wine Blog photo hugel 9 Jean 2008

When I was researching Hugel’s website (www.hugel.com) before writing my February Post # 6, it was not long before I had questions and entered into email correspondence with Etienne Hugel. Etienne responded to me immediately, he was very informative, cooperative, and hospitable. He issued me a written and standing invitation to visit Hugel’s winery again to revisit those marvellous Hugel SGN wines. I could tell instantly that Etienne shared that same passion and love for their Hugel wines as Jean had for so many years. Etienne joined the Hugel team in 1982 at 23 years of age, and worked tirelessly for 34 years until his untimely and tragic passing last month. Etienne was in charge of international sales and marketing, so he traveled widely and often. Hugel wines are now exported to over 100 countries around the world. Although the family has not disclosed what caused Etienne to pass away suddenly on April 9th at 57 years of age, I suspect it may have had something to do with his difficult travel schedule.

Reg's Wine Blog photo hugel 10 Etienne 2012

The Hugel family have been producing wine in Alsace since 1639, so 13 generations of the Hugel family have been making great wine for 377 years. Their passion and dedication to the family business is clearly evident. They are also admired and respected for their contributions to the industry itself as  ambassadors, leaders and trend setters of the future.

To Jean and Etienne Hugel, bravo and well done, gone but not forgotten.

Cheers,

Reg.

Reg’s Wine Blog – Post # 16 May 3, 2016, Tasting Graham’s 1985 Vintage Port at 31 years of age

My eldest son recently turned 31 years of age, so at his birthday celebration dinner I thought it would be fitting to cap off the evening with a bottle of Graham’s 1985 Vintage Port. Would the wine be in better shape than my boy? The 1985 Graham’s was supposed to be the best of the 1985 Vintage Ports, and we were about to find out.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 85 Graham's 5

Expecting the wine would have substantial sediment, I poured the open bottle into my trusty decanter and caught my first glimpse of the wine’s colour and texture. Blood red, thick and viscous as it swirled and coated the inside of my decanter, not a lot of sediment either, very clean. Not a lot of fragrance on the nose from the decanter. On pouring the wine into the glass, there was no evidence of any browning in colour around the edges, and the tremendous viscosity of the wine was evident from the long legs dripping down the inside of the glass. Once in the glass the nose was more aromatic than it was in the decanter, but it was still quite subdued. There were floral aromas there, but more subtle than one might expect from a reputed blockbuster port.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 85 Graham's 8

On the palate the wine continued to be very soft and delicate, displaying very smooth smoke and dark red fruit, plums, figs, dates. The wine was “hot but not”, meaning that it had that typical port like full bodied robust rush to it that we all love, but there was no longer any bite or kick to it that we normally associate with a less than fully mature port, instead it came across as a soft, warm caress. Definitely a fully mature port, in fact some might observe that the wine was losing its fruit, because you could clearly taste the brandy backbone in this wine. But this was not a bad thing, the overall effect imparted a light but smooth, elegant finish both on the palate and the nose upon exhaling. On further tasting you began to get aromas of lush sweetness and nuts, licorice and prunes all tightly knitted together into one smooth harmonious blend.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 85 Graham's 7

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 85 Graham's 2

The port was very successful on this evening. Even though fully mature, this wine remains in full harmony, well structured, with just enough fruit to dazzle your taste buds with different fruit and nut combinations. Those flavors are very subtle and very entertaining, as your palate searches for and finds more complex aromas with each new taste. One could happily sit alone by a warm fire tasting this port on a cold winter’s night and get pleasantly lost or distracted in the tasting experience.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Graham-Lodge

No kick, no bite, nothing out of place, it is all there, soft, delicate and very sophisticated. I would not rate this port at 100 points, but certainly a solid 92. In terms of evolution, at 31 this port is fully mature and may even be a little past its prime, but having said that this port will probably still be drinking very nicely 10 years from now. If you currently own the 1985 Graham’s, you should be drinking it now, or any time over the next 5 years. This wine will keep longer than 5 years, but I would advise keeping track of how well the fruit holds into the future by tasting it every couple of years if you have more than one bottle left in your cellar.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Garham's 1985 - 1

When I went to research this wine and its rating history on the internet I found quite a few disconnects that consumers will find contradictory. Robert Parker rated this wine at 96 points when he tasted it in 1989, saying it would peak and be fully mature in 1993, and continue to drink well for 20 years until 2013. WineSearcher.com gave the wine a score of only 84 points, based on the average of three scores, being 98 points from Decanter, 93 points from CellarTracker, and only 17.5 points (on 20) from Jancis Robinson. Well I am no mathematician, but I cannot figure out how three scores of 98, 93, and 17.5/20 (or 87.5) average out at 84. By my math, that averages out to 93, which is consistent with what we tasted on this night, and certainly not 84 points.

Reg's Wine Blog photo Grahams 1985 - 2

WineSearcher.com also advises to drink up, the wine according to them being good until 2016 only. Conversely, on the Fortheloveofport.com website Roy Hersh wrote an article covering a vertical tasting of Graham’s Vintage Ports in August 2011 where he described the 1985 Graham’s as “A port for the ages. I look forward to seeing how well this will drink in 25 more years.” That means Roy expects this wine to still be going strong in the year 2036, 20 years from now.

So when you navigate your way through all the conflicting information available on line, here are my conclusions. First, someone needs to send WineSearcher.com a calculator, or they need to hire someone who knows how to use one. Second, Robert Parker was right, the wine did mature early, but it will continue to drink very nicely well past his projection of 2013. Third, Roy Hersh should not wait until 2036 to try this wine again. In fact if Roy were to try the wine today he might be surprised at how much this wine has softened since his tasting in 2011. All this to say open a bottle and drink it now, this wine is at or slightly past its prime and will begin its decline sooner than you might think, but my guess is that it will hold in its current state another 5 years.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 85 Graham's 4

So who is aging better, my son or the 1985 Graham’s Vintage Port? Well the good news is that I expect my son will live much longer than the port will, he should be around at least another 50 years plus. The port on the other hand will be lucky to survive another 25 years. However, right now the port is better behaved and is smooth and reliable. To my son’s credit, the port is not that good with chores around the house, car repairs, and solving computer problems. So it was a close call, but I think my son is a keeper, and the port is a drinker. No doubt I will have lots of help from my son consuming the rest of my 1985 ports.

Reg's Wine Blog - photo 85 Graham's 9

 

Cheers,

Reg.